I am hit with the fumes of old wood, coffee, and spices as I open the door to Syriana. Situated along the streets of Old Ellicott City, the restaurant is in a quaint, 18th-century building, whose historic character is blended with traditional Middle Eastern touches.
Founded by Syrian refugees in 2016, Syriana quickly became not only a place to eat, but a place for fellow Syrians escaping war to find community and safe haven in their new home.
The first floor has been designed to feel like a market or Bazaar, and the dark wood and low ceilings give it a cozy feel. Syrian coffee, pastries, and loose tea are ready to pick up for those who would like a taste of the cuisine but don’t have the time for a sit-down dinner.
Luckily, my schedule and stomach was perfectly primed for a delicious meal. My family and I ascended a narrow creaking staircase to the second floor with the main seating. The dining area is just as beautifully decorated as the shop, and hosts a variety of handmade Syrian crafts for sale.
We, however, felt inclined for a bit of fresh air, and selected to sit on the deck outside. (If you do choose to eat outside, just keep in mind the street is a common route for motorcycles!).
Since there were three of us, and we wanted to try as many different flavors as possible, we ordered two variety platters: the Mezza Tour and Ultimate Grill. The shareable entrees make it reasonably priced, and two was plenty for three (or four) ravenous guests.
The Mezza Tour is perfect for a vegetarian like my mom — and anyone else who can sneak in a few bites before it’s gone. It came with hummus, baba ganouj, grape leaves, falafel, spinach fatayer, and a salad of choice; we chose tabouleh.
In my experience, falafels are often dry, but these were surprisingly moist — especially paired with the sweet tahini sauce that made my insides dance. The ganouj, which is pureed eggplant, has the texture and appearance of hummus. I found it to have a slight earthy taste, and both it and the hummus were delicious with the large stacks of pita.
The tabouleh salad was extremely fresh, and the spinach fatayer complemented the sweetness of the falafel perfectly (I wish there was more than one!).
I haven’t been a big grape leaf fan in the past — which means I can be a tough critic. Well, let’s just say that according to my empty plate, it passed the test.
The protein-packed Ultimate Grill was a perfect pair for the freshness of the Mezza Tour. It is a combination of chicken, beef and lamb kebab, served on rice with sides of hummus, garlic sauce, and Fatouch salad.
I enjoyed being able to sample and mix the flavors of the meats, and the salad had a satisfying crunch. For those who can manage the balancing act on their fork, I highly recommend combining the flavors of the kebab, rice, and salad. The pita bread with a tomato-based sauce is a great way to scoop up the last grains of rice.
Of course, we couldn’t eat at Syriana without ordering a side of their Syrian fries. The thyme seasoning gives them an extra kick, but it’s the toum dip that makes it hard for me not to waste my whole appetite on the fries. Slightly sweet and luxuriously creamy, it’s an absolute must-have.
To complement our food, each of us ordered a small cup of traditional Syrian coffee. The drink is sand-brewed, meaning it is heated in a pot over a bed of hot sand. The cardamon reminds me slightly of chai, and because it is unfiltered coffee, it has a quite robust flavor. Although I am not used to the granulated texture, it was a great cultural experience — just remember to stir as you drink (the coffee dregs like to collect at the bottom).
Unfortunately, the rain put an end to our al-fresco meal, and I’ll have to wait until next time to visit the third floor, which hosts a board room for large gatherings, a Damask room, and a tea room.
We did however, grab two desserts to go: a Mabroushe pastry and Dubai Chocolate. The pastry had an apricot and date-based filling, and I appreciated the combination of sweet and savory flavors. Biting into the Dubai Chocolate (which has become an internet sensation), reveals a bright green crunchy filling with similar flavors to a classic baklava.
My favorite thing about Syriana was how even though I was stuffing my stomach with so much flavorful food, I still felt light and energized at the end of the evening. My heart was light too; by supporting this small business, I enabled it to support the community in turn.
As what I would describe as casual dining, prices start at $6.99 for appetizers, and entrees range from $15.99 to $24.99 (sharing is highly recommended). Hours are between 11 a.m. and 8 p.m. on weeknights (except for Wednesdays when they are closed), and 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations can be made on their website, and they also offer private events, as well as catering to gatherings such as weddings, birthdays, and reunions.
If you are someone who loves the flavors of Mediterranean or Middle Eastern cuisine, and is eager to step into an authentic cultural experience, consider stopping by to eat at Syriana Cafe & Restaurant.
For more reviews on local restaurants and cafes, make sure to look out for future articles in our new Food Column: The Eagles’ Yolk.
